Are Vegan Trainers Really Better for the Planet — and Do They Last?

The rise of women's vegan trainers hasn’t happened by accident. Over the past 20+ years, one of the key drivers behind the rapid growth of vegan footwear - particularly styles made from PU (polyurethane) - has been cost. Compared to traditional leather, PU is significantly cheaper to produce, making it a popular material for fast fashion brands and price-conscious consumers. This affordability has been a major factor in the vegan category’s mainstream success. 
In parallel, the increasing popularity of plant-based lifestyles has inspired a global shift towards more conscious consumption, with many consumers seeking alternatives to traditional, animal-based products in all aspects of their daily lives. This has naturally extended into fashion and footwear, with vegan trainers emerging as a popular alternative to traditional leather footwear.
However, not all vegan materials are created equal and it’s crucial to distinguish between conventional polyurethane (PU) vegan leathers and innovative plant-based alternatives like cactus leather. With our growing awareness of sustainability and environmental impact, brands are being challenged to create not just an alternative to traditional leather trainers, but a responsible alternative to traditional vegan PU trainers.
This article delves into the nuances of these materials, focusing on cactus leather's sustainability credentials and its application in Cocorose London's vegan women's trainer collection.

Understanding Vegan Leathers: PU vs. Plant-Based Alternatives

Traditional PU Vegan Leather

Conventional vegan leathers often utilise polyurethane (PU), a synthetic polymer derived from fossil fuels. While PU-based materials avoid animal products, they come with environmental concerns:

• Non-biodegradability: PU does not decompose naturally, leading to long-term environmental persistence and landfill waste
• Chemical Processing: The production of PU involves toxic chemicals, posing risks to both workers and ecosystems.
• Microplastic Pollution: Over time, PU can break down into microplastics, contributing to pollution in waterways and soils.

Innovative Plant-Based Leathers

Emerging plant-based leathers aim to mitigate these issues by incorporating renewable resources. Materials like Piñatex (pineapple fibers), Mylo (mushroom mycelium), and Desserto (cactus) offer more sustainable alternatives. These materials often:

• Utilize Agricultural Waste: By repurposing byproducts, they reduce waste and the need for virgin resources
• Require Less Water and Energy: Plant-based leathers typically have lower water and energy footprints compared to traditional leather
• Offer Partial Biodegradability: While not entirely biodegradable, they decompose more readily than synthetic counterparts.

Spotlight on Cactus Leather: A Sustainable Innovation

What is Cactus Leather?

Cactus leather has quickly risen to prominence as one of the most sustainable plant-based alternatives to traditional synthetic materials. Produced from the mature leaves of the prickly pear cactus, it requires significantly less water than crops like cotton and grows without the need for harmful pesticides or herbicides. Its resilience in arid conditions and low ecological footprint make it an appealing option for eco-conscious consumers and brands seeking innovative material solutions.
I recently had the opportunity to speak with Andrea, co‑founder of Desserto, the pioneering company behind cactus leather. What stood out in our conversation was his emphasis on the full-circle sustainability credentials of cactus — not just as a material, but as part of a regenerative, circular farming system – the “Farm to Product” approach. 
Desserto works closely with local farmers in Zacatecas and San Luis Potosí, training and certifying them under USDA Organic and OEKO-GARANTIE standards. This not only improves working conditions but also boosts incomes, regenerating ecosystems as well as economies. 
Unlike conventional crops such as cotton, which demand vast amounts of water, cactus thrives naturally in drought-prone conditions, requiring minimal irrigation. Beyond this, the cactus plant itself offers substantial environmental benefits: it absorbs large amounts of CO₂, helps regenerate and preserve biodiversity in the soil, and supports surrounding flora and fauna. Farmers harvest mature leaves (every 6–8 months) without damaging the plant, enabling sustainable, long-term cultivation on previously degraded land and no deforestation is needed to cultivate it.
Andrea shared that their mission goes far beyond “vegan leather.” Instead, he described Desserto’s innovation as a biopolymer — a material made from plants, not plastic — with a vision of “replacing plastic with plants.” It’s this combination of low-impact agriculture, thoughtful innovation, and long-term environmental benefit that positions cactus leather as a game-changer in the evolution of responsible fashion.

Sustainable Farming Practices

• Minimal Water Usage: Nopal cacti thrive in arid environments, requiring only natural rainfall and no irrigation systems
• No Harmful Chemicals: The cultivation process avoids herbicides and pesticides, preserving soil health and local biodiversity.
• Carbon Sequestration: Desserto's 14-acre cactus farm absorbs approximately 8,100 tons of CO₂ annually, making it a carbon-negative operation

Production Process

• Sun-Drying: Harvested cactus leaves are dried under the sun, eliminating the need for energy-intensive drying methods
• Eco-Friendly Processing: The dried biomass is combined with non-toxic polymers to create a durable leather alternative
• Waste Utilisation: Residual organic material is repurposed for the animal food industry, ensuring a zero-waste approach

Environmental Impact

• Water Conservation: Producing one square meter of cactus leather requires only 0.02 cubic metres of water, compared to 32.95 cubic metres for traditional leather.
• Reduced Greenhouse Gas Emissions: Cactus leather production emits significantly less CO₂ than both animal and synthetic leathers

Durability and Performance: Does Cactus Leather Last?

When it comes to durability, it’s important to set realistic expectations. While cactus leather offers a much more sustainable alternative to conventional vegan PU materials, it does not yet match the long-term wear and resilience of traditional animal leather, which remains the most durable of footwear materials.
However, cactus leather is comparable in performance to standard vegan leathers, such as PU (polyurethane). Like PU, it offers a decent level of wear resistance and flexibility, especially when used in fashion and lifestyle products, and cactus leather outperforms PU in terms of breathability.
How wonderful it would be, if the cactus leather was made with 100% plant matter? The reality is that the organic plant content requires synthetic binders to help improve the material’s functionality and durability, in order to extend the usable life of the product. Without it, the material could deteriorate quickly, resulting in a false economy and greater waste. Desserto’s cactus leather currently contains up to 66% organic cactus biomass content, and the aim is to reach 90%.
While this composition enhances durability, it also means the leather is only partially biodegradable. On discussing this in further detail with Andrea, he explained that for a material to be defined as ‘biodegradable’, at least 70% of biodegradability must be reached in 30 days, under the Thermophyllic Biodegradability Test (45 – 50 degrees Celcius) which is the most accurate test for a landfill site. Currently, Desserto achieves 30% - 50% biodegradation in 30 days, which is far more superior compared to other synthetic materials.

Cocorose London's Commitment to Sustainable Footwear

So, what if your next pair of trainers could help save the planet — whilst keeping you looking and feeling incredible? 
At Cocorose London, we’ve turned that “what if” into reality with our revolutionary Kew range — the UK’s first plant-based trainers made from organic cactus leather and recycled materials. Designed in London and hand-crafted in Portugal, our purposeful trainers are seriously stylish. We’re not asking you to compromise — we’re giving you something better.
In an industry built on waste, we’re using innovative materials such as cactus leather and recycled cork and plastic bottles, small-batch slow fashion, and circular design to create footwear with purpose and challenge fast fashion. Our reforestation and recycling schemes go beyond product — they’re about progress.
With 18 years of trust and innovation behind us, Kew is our most ambitious collection yet. It’s backed by Innovate UK, supported by research from Sheffield Hallam University, recognised by the Green Growth Awards and recently spotlighted in The Independent as one of the best sustainable trainers. 
Our goal is always to find the balance between sustainability, quality and longevity. We believe that with careful craftsmanship and considered use, cactus leather offers a promising step forward in the vegan category of footwear and the innovation of responsible, plant-based footwear.

Product Highlights

• Cactus Leather Trainers: Combining style and sustainability, these trainers feature breathable cactus leather uppers and cushioned soles for all-day comfort.

Conclusion: A Step Towards Sustainable Footwear

Vegan trainers made from cactus leather present a promising alternative to traditional and synthetic vegan PU leather footwear. While not without limitations, the environmental benefits, ranging from reduced water usage to lower greenhouse gas emissions, are substantial.
Cocorose London's integration of cactus leather into our product line reflects our commitment to sustainable fashion. By choosing our cactus leather trainers, consumers can make a positive impact without sacrificing style or comfort.

Note: For more information on our vegan trainer collection and sustainability initiatives, please visit our Vegan Trainers Collection page.

Frequently Asked Questions

What makes a trainer “vegan”?

A vegan trainer is made without any animal-derived materials, such as leather, wool, or glues made from animal byproducts. Instead, vegan trainers typically use synthetic materials like PU (polyurethane) or plant-based alternatives such as cactus leather.

Is cactus leather 100% biodegradable?

Not yet. While cactus leather like Desserto contains up to 66% organic plant content and can biodegrade more readily than vegan PU, it still requires synthetic binders for strength and durability. However, its biodegradability is significantly better than standard synthetic leathers, with 30–50% biodegrading within 30 days under landfill-simulated conditions.

How durable is cactus leather compared to traditional leather?

Cactus leather is not as durable as traditional animal leather, which remains the gold standard in longevity. However, it performs comparably to PU vegan leather in wear resistance, flexibility, and breathability, making it a great alternative for everyday fashion use.

Is cactus leather better for the environment than PU?

Yes. Cactus leather requires far less water, avoids harmful chemicals, and is made using a regenerative farming process that captures carbon and restores biodiversity. PU, in contrast, is fossil-fuel based, chemically intensive, and non-biodegradable.

What is the environmental benefit of growing cactus for leather?

Cactus is a drought-resistant plant that thrives with minimal water and no herbicides or pesticides. It absorbs large amounts of CO₂ and improves soil health, making it ideal for sustainable farming on degraded land without deforestation.

Are Cocorose London’s cactus leather trainers fully sustainable?

Our trainers are designed with sustainability in mind, using organic cactus leather, recycled materials, and slow fashion practices. While no product is perfect, we are committed to improving every part of our process, from materials to manufacturing, with transparency and innovation at the core.

Where are Cocorose’s vegan trainers made?

Our cactus leather trainers are designed in London and ethically hand-crafted in Portugal, using small-batch production to minimise waste and maximise quality.

How should I care for my cactus leather trainers?

Cactus leather is low maintenance. Wipe gently with a damp cloth to clean and avoid prolonged exposure to water or harsh cleaning agents. We recommend moisturising them regularly with a body lotion or, if preferred, a specialist footwear cream, for hydration and longevity. Store them in a cool, dry place when not in use to preserve their shape and quality.