The Complete Guide to Ballet Flats

Ballet flats are the quiet overachievers of the shoe rack, are they ! They’ve been around for decades, slipping neatly in and out of fashion cycles without ever really going away. For those brands who have had the leather ballet flat as the cornerstone of their design catalogue, well it did get tough for a bit with the invasion of the trainer, our flats have never been far away. Today they are back in a big way, and not just the classic round-toed pumps but clever foldable versions for travel, prim and proper mary-janes and loafer-inspired shapes that feel a little sharper. The trick is in the details: soft leather that cozies up to your feet, cushioned soles that don’t punish you for walking, and designs that avoids the dreaded heel pinch. Pick wisely, care for them, and the younger of you will find they’re far more than a fallback option, and those old enough to know will bless the god of shoes that there is so much choice again. Let's face it, ballet flats the kind of shoes that manage to look chic while still letting you sprint for the last train.

What Are Ballet Flats?

Ballet flats, also know by us all as ballet pumps, take their cue from the slipper of the stage - the traditional ballet dancers shoe. I have always found they have a relaxed elegant. They typically have a low-profile, and are endlessly versatile being beloved for their ability to pair with almost any outfit. At Cocorose London we have redefine it a little, taking the classic silhouette and adding contemporary design, never wavering from premium leather, we have added practical comfort like pillowed heels and deep 'stack height'. While you are reading this guide, explore our leather ballet flats collection.

The History of Ballet Flats

The ballet flat has a rich fashion legacy, dating back to the 18th century when ballet dancers removed the heel for better mobility. The humble slipper quickly leapt from stage to street. In the 1950s, Brigitte Bardot helped popularise ballet pumps as streetwear, turned the shoe into a symbol of insouciant glamour. Later embraced by icons like Audrey Hepburn, Jackie Kennedy and in the 80's by Princess Diana - these graceful shoes became a mainstay in wardrobes worldwide. From Left Bank chic to Sloane Street polish, the flat became shorthand for "I know how to dress" and editorial coverage saw it adopted from Aberdeen to Turo.

Humbly, in 2007 Cocorose London gave the classic a clever twist with foldable leather designs. Proving that comfort and style can, in fact, share the same shoe.

Types of Ballet Flats

Ballet flats have been designed in different styles over the past decade, they share made, but there are plenty of different shapes and styles. The classic round toe, to more almond (like the nut) shape to sharp points off very different looks and tor box comfort. The season we have seen 'sneaker style' flats, like the Stratford style Cocorose designed in 2010, we have also seen the return of the Mary-Jane and a more casual loafer style flat. Lets have a look at tyles of ballet flats.

Classic Ballerinas

These are the quintessential ballet pumps in my view. They feature a rounded toe, slim profile, and elegant simplicity. Cocorose’s Sandringham and Buckingham styles exemplify classic design while incorporating ultra-soft leather uppers and double-cushioned insoles. Take a look at the Sandringham Collection here

Ruched Ballet Flats

Ruched styles offer added flexibility and comfort. The soft gathered detail isn’t just stylish, it can allow the flat to mould to the foot - caution if the elasticated top-line is too tight then they can be uncomfortable. Make sure the material used for the upper is soft, or the crinkle can cause discomfort.

Ballet Flats with Straps or Laces

Straps add both security and a form of style. Think ribbon-tie ballerinas or Mary Janes with cross-foot straps. They’re a blend of romantic and practical. I have found that the ribbon style tread a cautious line with looking a little too like actual ballerina shoe.

Mary Jane Ballet Flats

This design typically features a single or double strap across the instep. Its liked for its retro charm and secure fit, perhaps ideal for anyone who prefers a little extra support. The Mary-Jane has been a popular style this spring, but avoid looking like a child attending primary school.

Foldable Ballet Flats

Cocorose London is famous for pioneering foldable leather flats. It was some what a game-changer for women on the go. Dismissed in the early years by stuffy traditionalists, it grew in popularity and demand from 2009 as women discovered the comfort and practically of the design. Made for daily wear yet flexible enough to fold into a compact pouch, they’re perfect for commuting and travel.

Loafer Style Ballet Flats

Blending classic ballet form with loafer chic, this hybrid style, like the Cocorose Clapham loafers, features hand-woven leathers, broader toe boxes. Excellent for standard and a slightly wider foot. View the Clapham loafer collection here.

How to style ballet flats

Ballet flats work because they’re low-effort and high-impact, as we discuss above. Pick the right toe shape, finish, and colour, then match the hemline and trouser so the shoe can be seen.

Office & Professional Outfits

A mild pointed-toe leather flat in black or nude, sharpen tailoring and lengthen the leg. Pair with ankle-grazers, a crisp shirt, and a structured blazer. For midi dresses, choose an almond toe with a slightly higher vamp for support.

Smart-Casual & Weekend

Soft loafers or quilted ballet flats keep denim polished. Try straight-leg jeans, a Breton tee, and a trench. White, tan, or subtle metallics lift relaxed outfits without shouting. Take a look at the Cocorose soft woven loafers here.

Evening & Occasions

Patent, quilted, or velvet flats read festive. An embellished Mary Jane balances slip dresses and sleek jumpsuits. Keep hemlines midi or cropped to show the shoe. Or mix the materials, like our Harrow black ballet flat with a glitter toe cap.

Travel & Commuting

Cushioned, foldable flats are the sensible choice for long days. Wear with easy jeans or trousers, a trench or light puffer, and a cross-body bag. Neutral shades hide scuffs and pair with a tight capsule wardrobe. We have been designing foldable ballet flats for over 16 years, see the foldable collection here

Summer Dresses & Skirts

Woven leather, or low-cut pumps complement airy fabrics. Nude tones blend with the leg; red adds a confident accent. Tiered midis and linen sets love a delicate almond toe. The Cocorose Sandringham ballet flats, explore here, has an almond toe.

Casual Errands

Hybrid trainer-inspired ballet flats offer support without bulk. Team with leggings, a longline hoodie, and a quilted gilet. A neutral or soft pastel keeps it tidy but relaxed.

Work-from-Home & Hybrid

Flexible soles and soft leather keep loungewear presentable. Pair with ribbed cords or tailored joggers and a fine-gauge cardigan. A bright flat helps you look alive on quick video calls.

Common Ballet Flat Concerns (and How to Solve Them)

Some typical issues we may find with a ballet flat

Narrow Toe Boxes

The toe box, is that area at the front of your shoe, where your toes are. Some ballet flats can feel tight at the front, especially with pointed or shallow vamps. It you can move your toes, that's wiggle room.

Minimal Cushioning

Many brands skip padding, which leads to soreness over time. The total thickness underfoot between the insole board and the last, or your foot, is called the Stack height. At Cocorose, from our first designs we have always created higher stacks with our padding under heel and ball of your foot.

Slipping Off the Heel

Loose fits and rigid backs cause some flats to slip. This is a frequent concern with more poorly designed flats. A gently elasticated top line is the key. Then combined with more generous stack and padding around the collar. Women also find a higher vamp (at the front of the foot) can help prevent slipping, particularly for those with a narrower foot.

Comfort solutions in ballet flats.

Choose the Right Fit

Always size up if you’re between sizes, taking care that they will not slip off. Invest in ballet flats that have a soft leather thank is pliable. Through shoe trees you can help stretch the leather to increase the space in the toe box. Consider also the vamp. The Vamp is the height the the upper comes up over the toe, a higher vamp, as on our Barns, can greatly help with fit for a narrower foot.

Use Quality Insoles or Accessories

Heel grips, cushioned inserts or toe pads can customise your comfort, if you find you have invested in the wrong brand. Flats with no support, for those that need it - try using an arch insole or an "arch cookie".

Look for Padding at the Heel and Elasticated Toplines

Cocorose ballet flats are made with pillowed Achilles cushions and gentle elasticating to prevent slipping and rubbing.

How to Care for Your Ballet Flats

When we find our perfect pair, we need to care for them. Look after them and they will care for you, for many seasons. Lets have a look and create a simple care plan that can help keep leather ballet flats looking 'fresh'.

After each wear

Wipe with a soft, barely damp cloth; air out overnight.
Use shoe trees, wooden if possible - ideally cedar. If not available stuff with tissue to hold shape - particularly in the toe and heel. Careful not to over stretch if you are happy with the fit.

Weekly care

Brush off, then apply a thin layer of neutral cream polish; buff to a soft shine.
Check the top-line and heel for rubbing and add a touch of leather balm if the edge feels dry.
Prolonging the lifespan of all footwear and clothing is rotation. Avoid wearing every day.

Monthly or Seasonal care

Condition with a quality leather conditioner; go light around seams. Massage in to the leather, buff gently.
Top up water-repellent spray before a wet spell.

If the ballet flats get wet

Pat dry, stuff with paper, and let them dry at room temperature. No radiators, no hairdryers, and not in strong sunshine.
Once dry, condition and polish.
We can not avoid getting caught in the rain, but if its raining heavily select the most appropriate footwear, then change into your ballet flats later.

Scuffs & marks

Light scuffs: massage with cream polish, then buff.
Stubborn marks: use a colour-matched cream; for deep scratches, ask a cobbler.

Odour control

Rotate pairs; don’t wear the same flats two days running if possible.
Use no-show liner socks or leather insoles; pop in cedar shoe trees overnight.
If they get wet insoles - they must be dry before wearing again.

Soles & longevity

Over time consider thin rubber half-soles for grip and wear resistance.
Leather outsoles are a particular challenge - they can let water seep through to the sock, and wear out faster that a runner outsole.
Have a cobbler replace worn heel tips early.

Quick care kit

There are many care kits available. Try creating your own and consider: Soft cloth, horsehair brush, neutral cream polish, leather conditioner, water-repellent spray, cedar trees, colour-matched cream

Final Tips for Buying the Perfect Pair

Choose leather because its a breathable materials. If you do not buy leather items then seek our materials that breather like fly knit.
Prioritise comfort features: padded insoles, soft linings, soft leather uppers, flexible soles, padding at the collar.
Consider foot shape. A toe shape to give you wriggle room, perhaps with a vamp that best suits your feet. An upper that fits closely around your foot, but not to tight to aggravate bunions. Some designs, like our clapham, have uppers that work better with a wider foot - even on a standard fit.
Stick to versatile colours (black, nude, metallics) for maximum wearability. But heck, go for it too with Gold and Red !
Like all shoes, test them indoors on a clean surface before committing. Try walking to get a good feel. Try them with a variety of outfits and admire in long mirror.

Conclusion

Ballet flats, be they classic, leather, foldable or loafer-style, are a smart, stylish staple in any woman’s wardrobe. At Cocorose London, we’ve spent nearly two decades perfecting our collection to ensure every pair delivers beautiful comfort, modern functionality, and timeless elegance. From city commutes to airport lounges, work meetings to dinner dates, our foldable leather flats are designed to support you every stylish step of the way.

Discover the full Cocorose London collection of leather ballet pumps, foldable flats, and versatile ballet pumps for work and travel - and see why our customers call them "the best flats ever."